It has been a year. At some point during the winter I thought I might actually get to slope
fly this thing, the wind was North West which faces the slope to the south of the city.
In town, the wind was a fair breeze, on the mountain it was howling. I decided to go home without flying.
I also decided to not do that again, the road is appalling and bad for the car.
So, the solution is to add power. I purchased a 2211/10 170w outrunner
online and fitted it as a pusher. Here is the process...
- Mark the cutout, leaving some space for the prop to flex.
- Cut that bit out.
- Make a motor mount from correx signs. I held the wing level to the table and used a square to
mark the angle for the side pieces such that the motor is parallel to the wing centerline.
The two sides are glued to the base, a piece of balsa glued in to take the screws, and then
the whole is superglued to the bit of purple tape applied to the wing. I don't have foam
safe glue so the tape is there to protect the foam
- Cut servo holes. With the center section of the ailevons gone, the servos need to be repositioned.
I used the square again to mark the servo positions so that the control rods can move at right angles to the control surfaces.
Then I sliced 'vertically' (not as vertical as I thought, they are both at a bit of an angle)
down into the wing to cut out a servo shaped block. By going right through I can route
the wire from the other side. I cut the block to fit and taped it back in on the other side.
- The final result. Servos hot glued in (needs more than you think, they take a lot of force, esp with my dodgy landings).
The 2100mAh 3S LiPo is set into the wing and will be retained with a cable tie.
The ESC is inside the motor mount and is soldered to the motor wires since I could not
get bullet connectors when I was at the shop. 'Power Switch' is the Deans plug onto the battery.
The old servo hole in the foreground is actually covered in clear tape and the receiver (Spektrum AR6100)
is visible through the tape. This allows checking of the bind LED which will flash to indicate
range or power problems after a flight.
- Battery set into the wing. The hole goes all the way through to what used to
be the battery bay and receiver bay. The underside is covered by the pieces of
correx previously used.
I had thought to fit the battery to the underside in a correx fuselage.
This would have given a handy launching handle, but I decided to fit it like this
to protect it during landings. I may yet make a 'fuselage' to go over it.
Here you can see the receiver through the servo hole.
- The underside of the wing showing the bits of correx taped in.
The far side servo hole was filled with a piece of polystyrene.
The servo leads were extended by soldering in lengths of ribbon cable, and then
they were pushed into knife cuts in the surface and taped over.
Nose weight was added to balance at the previously measured CG, but the club guru
judged it nose heavy and this 20gram piece was removed, together with 15grams from
the top cluster.
- Having tried and failed to toss it in the air for launching, the prop contacted the ground with the motor running.
By some misfortune the propsaver elastics were super strong that day and instead of them breaking, the motor mount ripped to bits.
Above you can see the new motor mount made from aluminum sheet. At some point I want to cut even more metal off it, and make
more cooling holes, meanwhile, it flies.
This is the
Last modified: February 18 2013 16:01:32.